Nothing if not a perfectionist, our friend Mr. Lu came to Thailand in 1992—among the first wave of Taiwanese producers bringing over homegrown stock to explore the viability of a new terroir in Doi Mae Salong. It got harder before it got easier, and after numerous setbacks including a divorce, the first signs of a breakthrough emerged in the 2000s. A steam shovel driver in a past life, Mr. Lu brings a fastidious work ethic and nonpareil standards to theaculture, plucking, and processing. He is currently clearing land (with a steam shovel) for a Bed and Breakfast in his gardens.